Відео

aeb-l vs 80crv2 which is better as no one says clearly I am interested in these two which is better for a bushcraft knife?

Which steels can you cold forge? I mostly use 80crv2 and 1095. I don't have a power hammer so I wouldn't hit it hard. Just minor adjustments with the hammer. Hate having to fire up the coal forge to fix something tiny that I missed.

Yes, a guide will speed up work. However once one masters freehand, there are many-many styles of grinding that cannot matched with this crutch. This is the difference between a Master and Amature. We all have to learn and a crutch is blocking the advancement of said learning. KnifeMaker/Retired after over 47+ Year sin the Craft and in association with the Original R.W. Loveless Shop.

the color filter on this does such a bad job on faces, looks good on materials tho. The color could use some work. Good video tho!

Darn that was really informative, thanks for the content, this will be useful for future projects

That reggae out of nowhere was a bit of a shock to the system.

Absolutely incredible work.

Anyhow.. Very much appreciate and like Mr. Graham Clarke..Thank you 😎

I don't think freehand grinding could ever be as precise as using a jig of some kind.

Very hard to forge by hands but very good for cooking knife

Is the poster that you used to explain things in this video available for purchase. I am slightly autistic and things dont catch my eye often, but that poster has me in hyperdrive. I see that you respond to alot of comments, i would love to know. Also props for a nearly perfect video, i have spent hours watching people explain things in this specialty, but you have done by far the best job at it.

Cool

I’m 66 and can remember when 440 carbon was the new super steel. I really think that too much is made about steel types. After all a knife is first and foremost a TOOL for cutting things.

Your cut throat example has merit. But if you investigate Larrin Thomas, you will see he has test cases of carbon steel at different hrc. He scientifically tests wear resistance and toughness. Not discounting your experience, but it isnt under controlled testing conditions.

👍✌️⚒️

I just put a chef's knife in the tempering oven and sat down to get a drink and enjoy some youtube- I had no idea I was on my way to having my mind blown. I often refine my edge with a hand hammer after annealing, but I've never even heard of anyone going to this level with cold steel. Wow!

Great information! Thanks for posting. It would be great to hear about durability as well as harness. If you are going to be chopping or batoning a knife brittleness can be a problem.

Excellent video! Thanks and cheers from Outback Australia...

Stainless steel works for me ...I bought a German stainless steel knife and a Japanese stainless steel knife 38years a go...still working great. I have to sharpen them once a year and they hold the edge perfectly whole year in a family ketchen house of 12ppl ....

WRONG: 98% of them pick the right steel that suits their economic aspirations.

What a brilliant young man

"I have a home to go to, but I'm under no pressure to go there" Let's hope the Mrs. doesn't see that part Mr. Clarke! lol 😅

Are you leaving the dowel glued in with the stack, drilling through the dowel.

How would compression affect this? Coming out of the oil and then clamping the steel between some plates. It might change the rate of success?

what is the hardness of that knife?

I always figured it's from uneven amounts of mild steel causing the steel to pull more in different directions, could be a good thing to try just edge quenching on to see if there's still splitting that occurs

Great, just learned what else my induction bolt buster can be used for.

I think what is happening here is the core fails in tension as the outer skins shrink around the brittle core. It is probably easier to visualize in the case of differentially hardened blades. In the case of hamons gone wrong with the classic hockey stick crack that opens up, the shrinking spine rips the hardened edge apart. Think about what happens to a katana when properly heat treated. A straight blade goes into the quench, it then curves down, curves back up past its initial state and is pulled out with the expected curve. So the edge shrinks first, then the back shrinks and finally but it is hard to see the edge expands putting the whole blade in compression on the edge to spine axis. If the edge cools too fast and starts transforming too much into brittle martensite before the spine shrinks then it isn't able to plastically deform and fails in tension. In short the differential shrinking rates are dancing around the martensite formation in the hardenable section. As to the san mai, thicker skins = more force and thinner less so the ratio of core to sides is a variable. Putting clay on the spine would delay the formation of martensite giving more time for plastic deformation to equalize the forces, etc.

Graham is looking well, great video!

If almost as if the Japanese put the Hamon on for a reason beyond decoration.....

ty for sharing

Always informative & scientific; info I find no where else. - The expansion of steel in the hardening/cooling process sheds light on steel cracking within & along crystal boundaries. - Micrographs reveal higher levels of cracking in outer layers of steel crystals of finished knife blades. - My thought & ( I may well be wrong ) is that this cracking may be related to the relative rapid cooling occurring in the blade grinding/profiling stage of machining. - I am also thinking rapid cooling occurring in the sharpening process may also result in steel crystal cracking along boundaries & within carbon structures near the cutting edge, diminishing cutting edge stability. - Can any one confirm or refute these concepts ?

I had the same problem so I know the pain when you almost had it... you'll do all and at the most important part of the process, it fails. So the solution I come up with is to put less carbon steel near the core and then went with mild steel and then again with carbon steel and mild again at the end. So W1 or 52100 as a core, bandsaw blade next(which i was told is 15N20, so 2%Ni there) then mild steel and repeat or not. Good heat, none flux, no delamination no core cracking, no problems.

interesting, obviously a complex subject

I occasionally get cracks from the knife edge up when I'm doing Hamons with W2 and sometimes other steels. Maybe 1/5 or 1/6? Any ideas?

I'm no metallurgist but I have hardened many stainless/wrought iron clad high carbon core - san mai blades. I've also had this splitting happen to me. The way we've managed to minimize it is by first exposing the core steel on the cutting edge of the knife profile, then we make sure to only edge quench the blade, about 40% of the way up the blade. We quickly correct any warps while the blade is still hot and then allow it to cool to the touch. As soon as we can comfortably pick up the blade we put it into the tempering oven and relieve the stress on that core steel. If the blade is left out too long after quench - that is when that splitting it going to occur. If you find that the splitting is occurring during the quench, then it's most likely due to too fast of a quench medium.

Great video! Interesting topic! I believe I’ll be sticking with two Hardenable materials ! 👊

It doesn't happen to me enough of the time that I can really put much of a guess on 'why' it just sometimes, randomly seems to happen. Vast majority of the san-mai style I've made lately is 1018 cladding, layer of nickel (because shiny) and 125SC core, really fine slip of ATP over the whole lot, 10min at temp and a water quench. Wasn't a single crank, bang, delamination or warped one out of about 10 in a row. Now I'm not being a smartarse about it, but I fully expected half of them to pop on me! Literally if I got 40-50% usable out of that batch it was going to be good enough. Other side of the coin, whole heap of 1084 clad with 26C3 core, 10min soak in a fast-oil quench: almost guaranteed that it'll work as they're so close in terms of heat treatments Nope! A little over half of them had something completely crap-out on me. either an entire side peeled away on one, crack right down the middle or ended up with something going bananas. There was a lot of very short knives made that day and the art-bin got filled up with shame. Any advice? Yeah- make 2 or 3 of the same one and hope 1 survives! If they all survive that's great but I wouldn't count on it

What do you mean by putting a reactive gas in the canister? Since gas expands when heated, it will tend to 'blow out' welds. So how do you keep a canister filled with gas intact while heating it to the forging temperature?

Very helpful info and video! Does canola oil ignite at around 450c as well? That’s all I’ve got so if it works the same I’ll try making some sort of press.

What's the size of material that you started with?

Wonder if you could do that with cork

I have both stainless and high carbon steel knives of all sizes. Recently made a stainless steel dagger shesth knife. Stainless does take a lot of work to sharpen. I use me carbon chef knife for almost everything. It is blackened of course and gets dirty. I decided to super clean the metal including scratches, etc. After metal clean and dry i mixed a bit of 2 part epoxy and evenly spread a thin coat over the blade. When cured I put the knife back to general kitchen duties. Knife slick durable voating rasy to clean and s handy oil stone keeps it sharp. I am trying to figure out what to transform my useless knife honing steel into that's interesting.

Thank you for the detailed information!

I was one of those who touted the supposed merits of carbon steel for years, up until recently. Having taken in some info on metallurgy, now it seems like all most carbon steels are good for is a nice patina. I confess, I do like a good patina.

Would O1 make a good sword? Perhaps of the more ridged type such as Japanese style? Would O1 be good for bushcraft knife in pattern and geometry similar to Becker BK-2? What about bushcraft axe/hatchet?

Better than a magnet is salt melting on your steel. The one option i didnt see mentioned was templisticks.

Which Glue you use